Matting Hazards
Poor Hinging
|
The proper hinge should always be on the back of the
artwork. In photo 1 the hinges were put on the front of the work. As a result, linen tape was put on
top as the T part of the hinge to secure the work. The more preferred method
would have been two Japanese T-Hinges on the back of each piece. The same is
with photo 2. Linen tape was on the back of the art work already so linen T-
Hinges were used instead of Japanese hinging.
|
Photo 1

Click here for a larger image |
Photo 2

|
Dry Mounting & Poor Matting Techniques

Click here for a larger image |
 |
Dry mounting is used regularly in the framing industry and is very effective for
standard posters and the like. However, this photo was dry mounted and
by today’s standards should be replaced with archival photo corners. To do this,
it will have to be removed by a conservator.
In this photo a second
hazardous method was used by using two sided tape on the back of the front mat
to secure it which resulted in the tape getting onto the photo. The white paper
seen on the photo is from the tape will have to be properly removed by a
conservator.
|
Poor Matting
 |
Here is an example of a mat done at the turn of the twentieth century which
shows the damages of highly acidic mat board. The dark brown image with the 8
sides is the acid burn done from the front mat. The watercolor was glued onto the mat and will need a paper
conservator to remove it.
|
Proper Backing
Every matted picture should have a back board to help protect the art work. CDM
uses acid free foam core. Photo 1 was the backboard to watercolor in
photo 2. which had been put in the basement and had water damage. Luckily
the water did not get past the foam core and protected the original watercolor.
Old, acidic corrugated cardboard was used in photo 3 and should be replaced by acid free
foam core.
|